Forests

The woodland here is more reminiscent of European forests, which is probably why the trees were called beeches by the early Pakeha settlers. They are not related, but the lushness of the northern rain forest is diminished despite all the moss and lichen. One of the things that I notice is the proliferation of fallen trees. DOC's wilderness policy dictates that nothing is removed. Ultimately, it is this fallen, rotting vegetation, which creates the soil and nutrients the forest depends on.

Grant was telling me that the trees sometimes get stuck in small creeks, then accumulate and form dams. When they finally burst, the devastation can be dramatic.

Rees-Dart track

Headed for the backcountry again. I was feeling a bit nervous. An extreme weather warning had been issued for indefinite rain. And I was heading up towards the snowline. I love the way you are not discouraged from doing it anyway in this country. An element of risk is considered acceptable. Warnings are issued and it is left up to your own recognisance. So I bought a new mac. Most expensive item of clothing I have ever owned. But I felt more comfortable with what I was doing. The track was serviced with huts, fuel, etc., but the track itself was more basic than on the Great Walks. The only markings sometimes were cairns every few yards. All very zen in amongst the alpine plants at the higher altitudes.

The only existential crises here are concerned with heat, water, food and shelter. Company would have been nice, but it was also special knowing I was the only person for 20 or 30 km. This country is so benign in many ways. The only dangerous critter is a tiny spider called a white tail, whose bite can take a while to heal, but they only attack when provoked. I have at least three living in my van! But rain can lead to flooded creeks and avalanches later on in the year. One bridge on this track is removed every winter because it would be destroyed otherwise.

Despite the warnings, the weather cleared for a few hours on my last day in.

The Lakes

Lakes Wanaka, Hawea and Wakatipu follow in quick succession. The land feels very different. Like Scotland or the Rockies in Colorado. Mainly due to bare hillsides and the introduction of non-indigenous trees, which are displaying their autumn plumage.

Haast valley

Up the Haast valley, and over the pass southeastwards.

Glacier

On the road south along the West Coast, there are a couple of glaciers, which reach down close to sea level, by courtesy of the high rain/snowfall, a large high altitude collecting basin for the snow, and a steep narrow gorge through which the glacier descends at the rate of about 1m/ day. The power of the ice to move/ remove rock is astonishing.

As it descends over the uneven substrate, the ice shatters forming crevaces.

Tramper's tree

Weka

These cheeky birds seem to withstand the onslaught of rats, stoats et al. better than most of the native birds. In this area at least. Each hut seemed to have at least one resident weka, nosing around.

Cabbage tree in flower

Rata

The tallest trees in the forest are Rata. They achieve their supremacy by initially climbing up the trunks of other trees, then slowly taking their place when they die.

Some get to host other plants in turn.

Bushman's bogroll

I'll let you figure this one out

Heaphy track

Now in the South Island at the top of the West Coast. It gets the brunt of the weather crossing the Tasman Sea from the West. The Heaphy track is an 82 km track that joins the West Coast with Golden Bay on the North Coast. By road the same journey is several hundred kilometers to avoid the worst of the mountains. As a result trampers get this wilderness to themselves.
The first coastal section has lots of Nikau palms - NZ's only indigenous palm.

As one of the "Great Walks" the track is well maintained with drained tracks, walkways over the boggy bits and swing bridges over the more volatile creeks.

As a result, despite its inaccessible location, there are loads of people on the track from school kids on holiday with their parents, students, a group of middle-aged women and an old man with his daughter and son-in-law. I realise this is where Kiwis grow up. Everyone lumped in together every evening in the huts, with a few basic rules about cleanliness and hospitality, which are practised outside of the bush as well. The oldies get to pass their lore on to the youngsters. And the kids get to play once they reach the huts and can ditch their backpacks.

The track left the coast after the first day, climbing through beech forest up to the Goulden Downs and Mount Perry. Day 2 I walked 36 km - which I'm petty chuffed about - then climbed Mount Perry on Day 3, looked over into Golden Bay, before turning back the way I had come in. 120 km in five days.

Heather's place

While in Hawke's Bay on the East coast of the North Island, I also visited Grant's girlfriend's farm/ station in the lea of the Te Mata peak. 750 acres of feijoa orchard, beef farm, eucalypt forest and more.

Many of the landowners around Hawkes Bay are into organic and biodynamic farming according to Steiner principles. It appears the education guru had opinions considered worthy in many fields (no pun intended). Agriculture - Steiner style - uses homeopathy and astral calendars extensively. I can't imagine it being adopted by the native farmers in favour of phosphates, but many of the wealthy immigrants around Havelock North are converts. Went to see an independent film about an Illinois farmer called The Real Dirt on Farmer John. I recommend it if you get the chance to see it.

No shortage of turkeys here for Christmas. And these are wild!

Emil's place

Visited Emil near Napier. I was most impressed with the way he carves wood, in a way that enhances the sensual appeal of the timber. Works best with plain woods. I look forward to experimenting with my anglegrinder.

His house and workshop were fantastical. Money no object. The workshop featured the cream of available machinery including an Altendorf saw (for you woodworkers out there), and the house was filled not only with the fruits his own labour but those of other artists (and vintners) to boot. A real treat for me.

White Island

Off the Opotiki coast. White Island is New Zealand's most active volcano.

Rotten rock

Like the Wellington area, the East Cape is made up of rotten rock. It shatters easily and results in many landslips. All the time. Roads are often rendered impassable

Fantail

These charming little birds - like antipodean wagtails - often accompany one on the trail in the hope of catching insects flying up to get out of trampers' paths.

Motu

Returned to Opotiki to go tramping in the East Cape with Grant. Trekked into the usually mighty Motu River, and relaxed for a morning on it's banks before walking back out again. We were following an old trail, which was unfortunately wide enough for hunters to get in on quad bikes. So we encountered about 10 men in Robin Hood outfits complete with horns to attract the attention of rutting stags. We didn't actually here any gunshots. Just a lot of lowing humans! Quite comical in a way, if you ignored the danger.

Grant was a great companion, having run a company, which specialised in taking parties into the bush for rafting trips down the river. So he was full of stories about the river suddenly swelling to three times it's usual size after a storm and almost killing his clients.

Emil Baur

I've been looking for a gallery in Auckland in which to sell one of my butterfly tables. In my search I found some virtuoso cabinetmaking by a Swiss gentleman by the name of Emil Baur. I feel almost ashamed to call myself a cabinetmaker in the same breath. The attention to detail is unparalleled in my experience. I hope to meet him later in my travels. Apparently he's a recluse, but he called me at the gallery's request to invite me to his workshop in Hawke's Bay.

Hundertwasser loo

Friedrich Stowasser - aka Hundertwasser - spent much of the last 27 years of his life living in the sticks north of Auckland. His life here is immortalised in a public loo in Kawakawa, near his home. Among his many creations is a flag for NZ free of the Union Jack - yet to be adopted - which features a koru (unfurling fern frond). It is recreated in ceramic this loo on the side of the washstand (centre).

Amber

Kauri blood. When injured, the trees bleed this gum/ resin. A hundred years ago it was mined (from old forests) and harvested (from living trees) for use in lino and varnish until synthetic equivalents were developed.

Wall of death

Exhibit in the kauri museum.

Tane Mahuta

Lord of the Forest. Biggest Kauri in existence and over 5m in diameter. There are very few of these trees left. I can imagine what a temptation they were to early settlers with their huge trunks, which were free of any branches up to over half the overall height of the tree. But it's still a shame.

The Piano

This is a stunning beach west of Auckland at Karekare, where Jane Campion filmed the opening scenes of The Piano.

Dragon boats

We went to see the finals of the dragon boat races held nationwide over the Easter period. The coxes sit at the front of the canoes with a big drum - which they sadly didn't seem to use.

Gill

Met with my sister's godmother in Auckland and we spent some time together catching up on 15 year's news and sightseeing in Auckland.

Pohutukawa

Although the kauri are more famous, I associate this tree most closely with the kiwi landscape. Around the Coromandel and East Cape there are some huge ones. Some too big to carry their own weight! They have a distinctive exploding red flower that comes out at Christmas time.

Tui

Most beloved bird of the indigenous humans for their distinctive warbling. Often heard but harder to spot, I came across this couple in a grove of Pohutukawa trees while walking around the north of the Coromandel peninsula. Their Pakeha name is the Parson's bird.

Coromandel

The peninsula is surrounded by lots of small islands - most uninhabited and protected from kiwi predators.

The main culprits are stoats and weasels. Although feral cats, rats and possums are also exterminated from these islands to protect the indigenous fauna and flora.

Pinnacles

Moved north to the Coromandel peninsula and climbed up to the "Pinnacles" further up this valley.

The Coromandel - like the rest of New Zealand is the aftermath of a load of volcanic activity from a few million years ago. This outcrop of once molten rock was once quite literally the plug inside a volcano. The volcano has since eroded from around it.

Campsite

Another perfect campsite. The sea behind my back. A couple of OAP travellers in the background with their static homes sold and the proceeds invested in mobile homes. A popular way to retire in this country. And given the wealth of park-ups like this, who can blame them. Even if you are doing it in less style - like me - toilets and water are readily available free of charge.

Crater

Even in summer there are usually snow drifts around the summit. This summer they exist only in the crater. In the background you can see the surf on the beach where I spent the night licking my wounds. One grazed leg where I slipped on the snow. Two burnt armpits, where I omitted to apply sunscreen. The summer sun here is unremitting. Two aching legs. There is a middle section to the climb that is loose shale. For every two steps forward, you slide one back. Lung busting. I remember once looking for pumice with which to make a lightweight concrete coffee table. Now I know where to look.