Headed for the backcountry again. I was feeling a bit nervous. An extreme weather warning had been issued for indefinite rain. And I was heading up towards the snowline. I love the way you are not discouraged from doing it anyway in this country. An element of risk is considered acceptable. Warnings are issued and it is left up to your own recognisance. So I bought a new mac. Most expensive item of clothing I have ever owned. But I felt more comfortable with what I was doing. The track was serviced with huts, fuel, etc., but the track itself was more basic than on the Great Walks. The only markings sometimes were cairns every few yards. All very zen in amongst the alpine plants at the higher altitudes.

The only existential crises here are concerned with heat, water, food and shelter. Company would have been nice, but it was also special knowing I was the only person for 20 or 30 km. This country is so benign in many ways. The only dangerous critter is a tiny spider called a white tail, whose bite can take a while to heal, but they only attack when provoked. I have at least three living in my van! But rain can lead to flooded creeks and avalanches later on in the year. One bridge on this track is removed every winter because it would be destroyed otherwise.

Despite the warnings, the weather cleared for a few hours on my last day in.

