The family and I got an overnight “sleeper” bus to Hampi - Imagine a standard bus with about two dozen bunk beds. Hampi is home to the remains of a Hindu Empire from the 15th and 16th centuries. It’s charm lies partly in its extraordinary post-glacial landscape of haphazardly strewn boulders, partly in the architecture, but mainly in the people. The touts and hustlers here - unlike in the north - would accept the answer “No” with an amicable “OK. Fine. Have a nice day.” Bliss. A license to chill.