Sexual equality

Not sure if this is what feminists were hoping for. Among the labouring castes, women appear to do all the carrying work. Here carrying soil out of a construction site as the foundations are being dug and carrying cement to put in the holes. Everything is balanced decorously on the crowns of their heads. Again the working day is from dawn to dusk - or about 14 hours.

Making slates

Labour is so cheap that everything is made by hand. Slates for roofing.

Nick's place

Of course it isn’t really Nick’s place. It’s Tensing’s, who happens to be a pretty savvy Tibetan business man, who is raking it in on his hotel and restaurant businesses, while only paying his staff 500 rupees (about £5.90) a month. Plus board and lodging. And they work from 6am until 10pm! I think we should all have at least two each.

Snake Charmer

Dalai Lama

Dharamsala and its satellite villages host a big population of Tibetan refugees clustered around the Dalai Lama’s residence. Indeed the whole community is constantly abuzz with His Holiness’ movements and appearances. He is seen here (in car) on his way to the anniversary celebrations of the Tibetan Childrens’ Village.

Prayer wheel

Prayer wheels come in all shapes and sizes, from portable versions to this mamma. In karmic terms every revolution corresponds to one mantra chanted. I like the Buddhist philosophy, but find this one hard to swallow. Another Buddhist karma trick to a better future existence is to perform prostrations - usually 108 000 - non stop for 3-4 years. It’s about subduing the ego, and I actually find this easier to relate to than the prayer wheel gig.

Gompa

Temple or “gompa” where Dalai Lama lives. Whole hillside is covered in prayer flags. Have to say, compared with the rest of India, the Dalai Lama brings in the tourist dollar, making this town relatively affluent. Not sure if that makes up for having your country occupied and genocide practiced on your countrymen!

Diwali

Diwali. Hindu Festival of Light. Firecrackers and fireworks all night. Music and dancing for half the night. The enthusiasm of these boys/ young men is quite infectious. Fortunately half the population is Buddhist. Otherwise the noise would have been twice as bad.

Yoga

Start of two 5-day beginners’ yoga course in this purpose built Iyengar yoga studio. Iyengar yoga utilises a lot of ropes, belts, bolsters and cushions to help you relax in each asana/ posture. It is also very precise about the position of the skeleton and the function of the muscles. Would prefer it if you didn’t need so much gear, but I’m hooked. Beginning to feel like I know what I’m supposed to be doing.

Tibetan India

Walked to Bhagsu waterfall. Found these Tibetan monks washing their clothes. Perhaps not how they would choose to be portrayed. But hey, who’s blog is it anyway? This is how most laundry is done in India.

Himalaya

India was once in the southern hemisphere - part of the super continent called Gondwana. When it broke off from Gondwana, it made it’s way across the Indian ocean and piled into Asia. Indeed it is still ploughing into it’s new host continent, pushing up the Himalayan mountains at a rate of 8mm/ year. The plains below Dharamsala resemble a kind of geographic cellulite, with endless ranges of smaller hills arranged in serried ranks.

Life is cheap

Got talking to Bageswari. He is 17 years old, works six days a week, thirteen hours a day, for £1 a day making shoes. Dead proud of his job. Wants to get an education in computing, but also needs to support his family.

Red Fort, Delhi

Explored Delhi for the day before boarding overnight bus to Dharamsala. Delhi is absolutely heaving with people. India is heaving with people - their population grew by over 20% between 1991 and 2001 - and they keep accepting more from abroad. Refugees from Tibet, Afghanistan, Iran.... The pavements are impassable for people living their lives on them. Eating, sleeping, washing, being shaved, doing their laundry. For all the squalor of their living environment, Indians are meticulous about their personal cleanliness.

1st day in Delhi

Went to trade fair about 15km out of town in Greater Noida. Like an Indian NEC. Hired an old Ambassador taxi for the day and found a company to reproduce my butterfly table. Handed over my templates and told them I would visit their factory in 6 weeks time. All the aluminium factories in India appear to be found in one city North East of Delhi called Moradabad. A bit like the markets in India, where you find all the jewellers in one quarter, and all the grocers in another. Makes more sense to my mind to spread out, but I guess you go to Tottenham Court Road if you want a hi-fi in London, so perhaps we are no different. Expo was an oasis of calm compared to Delhi.