Explored Delhi for the day before boarding overnight bus to Dharamsala. Delhi is absolutely heaving with people. India is heaving with people - their population grew by over 20% between 1991 and 2001 - and they keep accepting more from abroad. Refugees from Tibet, Afghanistan, Iran.... The pavements are impassable for people living their lives on them. Eating, sleeping, washing, being shaved, doing their laundry. For all the squalor of their living environment, Indians are meticulous about their personal cleanliness.